Gunung Senyum will leave you muddy ear to ear
- Gypsytracker
- May 18
- 5 min read
Updated: May 19
Gunung Senyum, standing at 486 meters and known as "Smiling Mountain," is a significant limestone formation situated about 20km from the Krau Wildlife Reserve. This reserve is one of the last remaining lowland virgin rainforests in Pahang, Malaysia, and approximately 40km from Temerloh, Pahang. The Kuala Gandah Elephant sanctuary is also nearby, famous for providing visitors with the opportunity to interact and bathe elephants in the river. #gunungsenyum
Gunung Senyum Recreational Forest offers various adventure activities, including cave exploration at Gunung Senyum or Gunung Jebak Puyuh (Quail Trapped Mountain), as well as hiking to the peak of Gunung Senyum. #gunungjebakpuyuh
Due to morning shower on our hike day, we decided to explore the caves first before attempting the summit, hoping that the rain will stop later part of the day. We explored Gunung Jebak Puyuh, 5 out of 6 pristine caves in the vicinity. #gunungjebakpuyuh
Lady luck was on our side, the skies cleared up at noon and we embarked on our hike to the peak.
There are two main trails: the West and the East. The West trail is more challenging, featuring numerous cliff climbs over boulders and rock faces. In contrast, the East trail offers a less adrenaline-fueled experience, with many enchanting stops along a shady forest path. ( giant tree, layer rock, squid tree, giant liana vine)
Starting point: Path from Pavilion 1
Hike Length: 3.5 km one way
End Hike: Backtrack, around 4 half hours
Track condition: muddy, rocky, bouldering, steep
Hike Difficulty: Hard
Facilities: Big shout out to Temerloh Forestry of Pahang! Shower and toilet with strong water pressure (river water)
Permit and Guide is needed (DM me for details)
Scenery Rewards: STUNNING VANTAGE POINTS
Things to bring
Basic first aid stuff such as disinfectant, ankle guard in case you sprain your ankle, band-aid.
Headlamps in start before sunrise
At least 1l of water, pack snack!
Cap (it can get extremely hot at the peak)
Gloves (many ropes and boulders)
Leech alert (bring anti-leech spray)
Lunch pack
Check point 1, Camp Balak
The trail from the pavilion to the check point 1 was relatively flat.
There is a stream crossing before the trail steadily ascends.
The makeshift bridge of loosely arranged branches had been submerged by the early morning downpour. There was no way to keep our feet dry, the water from the mountain was cold and most of us were shaken from the chilling dip.
With soggy shoes, we trudged along the trail and soon reached our first real challenge—a steep, slippery ascent that tested my ability to pull myself up on unstable ground. The topsoil offered no grip, and we had to hoist ourselves up nearly 30 meters without a break. Just around the bend came the second rope section, equally slick—if not worse. Fortunately, our guide pointed out an alternative route through the boulders. It wasn’t any easier, but it was less slippery. We all had the same worrying thought about the return journey, knowing that it would be much harder!
In total, there are nine rope sections along the East trail. You will walk 5 steps and realize you are slipping 2 behind.
FUNFACT: The pokok tualang tree has always been associated with spooky tales. The is tree is not hardwood, and was probably left unlogged either due to the beliefs of the spirit of the tree.
After around 45 minutes we arrive at the "layer rock". We regrouped and calm our nerves.
The guide assured us that the worst was over.
After the "Layer Rock" point, the trail eased in gradient but remained demanding. In several stretches, it clung precariously to the edge of a rock cliff, with narrow, uneven terrain offering barely enough space for secure footing. Near the final section leading to the vantage point, a CAUTION sign warning for wet rocks and steep cliffs added a sense of trepidation—an important reminder that this hike is not for the faint hearted.
Check point 2, Ramah Kambing
Checkpoint 2 wasn’t far from the vantage point, and from there, the trees began to appear noticeably more stunted. The trail featured an array of fascinating liana vines—some resembling octopus suckers, while others twisted into intricate, web-like shapes. This stretch of the hike was pleasant and gently undulating, offering a welcome change of pace. It took approximately 20 minutes to reach check point 3.
Check point 3, Permatang Kambing
At Checkpoint 3, we began ascending a series of boulders, as if stepping into a different tier of the mountain. This upper layer was exposed, sun-drenched, and scattered with countless boulders. With no trail markers in sight, navigating through this rocky maze was far from easy—we had to rely on instinct to find our way toward the peak. The view at this point was simply breath-taking. Gunung Jebak Puyuh beneath us, the Krau Reserve forest on the east side, the mighty muddy brown Pahang river straight ahead! But our mind was focused on the way to the peak!
Around this time, our guide began experiencing muscle cramps, so rather than lose precious time, we decided to push ahead on our own. Always practice a cutoff point no matter which mountain you are on, as weather conditions can change the course and terrain of the trail.
At the peak, we shared an imaginary celebratory champagne toast and refueled with some snacks before beginning our descent.
On better days, it’s possible to summit via the West trail and descend through the East. However, with rumbling thunder echoing in the distance, we knew another downpour was approaching. There was no time to linger—we had to make a swift return.
The Return of the Slime Mud
The return to the car park had to be approached with extra caution. The rain-soaked soil offered no grip—I felt like I was skiing downhill without brakes. All of us slipped and landed on our butts more than once.
In a state of fatigue and near exhaustion, I had a strange encounter during the descent near the rock face. I saw two black figures heading toward the peak, speaking in what sounded like a local dialect. I paused, expecting our paths to cross—but they never did. They simply vanished.
I was spooked, but kept it to myself, silently reciting prayers. Even now, I prefer to believe it was just my tired mind playing tricks on me.
Senyum Mountain Reserve Park has so much to offer. Arriving a day earlier would be ideal, allowing time to visit the nearby elephant sanctuary and enjoy the region’s delectable river fish from the Pahang River. Despite it being the weekend, there were only two groups on the trail, a testament to how relatively undiscovered and pristine the mountain and its caves still are.
Date visited: 18th May 2025
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